VeloZap : A great idea on the road
To build a VeloZap, you will need
This section is devoted to people having a bicycle as their main possession, not always having access to up-to-date occidental medicine, and willing to try and experiment a zapper.
On the same lineage and good meaning of Dr Clark's zapper, Maestro-Zapper offers the idea, schematics and use of VeloZap, on Public Domain, hopping that the simplicity of this circuit will permit to a larger number of people to try micro-currents on an experimental and personal basis.
All recommendations and zapper warnings still applies with this circuit. Please, read "zapper uses" page before using a zapper.
On the same lineage and good meaning of Dr Clark's zapper, Maestro-Zapper offers the idea, schematics and use of VeloZap, on Public Domain, hopping that the simplicity of this circuit will permit to a larger number of people to try micro-currents on an experimental and personal basis.
All recommendations and zapper warnings still applies with this circuit. Please, read "zapper uses" page before using a zapper.
Bicycle is an almost universal locomotion way, mainly on countries where the occidental consumption civilization did not permit to everyone to "live" by its "pills" medicine.
This simple and sturdy vehicle comes back in North America as a leisure activity, replacing sometimes automobile, by choice rather than by obligation.
In its popular version, bicycles have an autonomous and primitive light system, using an alternative voltage generator of about 3W and 6V called "dynamo lighting"
This simple and sturdy vehicle comes back in North America as a leisure activity, replacing sometimes automobile, by choice rather than by obligation.
In its popular version, bicycles have an autonomous and primitive light system, using an alternative voltage generator of about 3W and 6V called "dynamo lighting"
A bicycle with a dynamo lighting system :
= 3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)
= 3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)
What we are looking for
A bicycle with a dynamo lighting system :
= 3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)
= 3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)
How to do-it : Theory
Function of the 4 components
= C1 & D1 converts the nominal 6VAC to a 16V (almost) DC
= R1 limits the current to a safe level for the user (and the LED)
= LED1 stops any voltage lower than 1.2V, and gives a visual indication that current flows. Offset of this circuit is 1.2V. Quite good.
Component description :
C1 = Electrolytic capacitor, value from 22 to 100uF, 50V or more.
D1 = Diode 50 to 100V, 50mA to 1A.
R1 = Resistor 1/8W to 1W. 1.0kohm to 2.2kohm
LED1 = Any kind, high intensity recommended.
Our test circuit has been built with what we had in hand.
C1 = 22uF - 50V
D1 = 1N4004 (1A-400V)
R1 = 1kohm, 1/4W
LED1 = LTL2R3KFK
LED 5mm yellow, 700mcd@20mA - 2V
BEAWARE : The diode, capacitor and LED have a polarity you must respect : they have a (+) end and a (-) end.
They most be well connected : Capacitor with its (-) side on the dynamo, capacitor (+) side on the K (Cathode) of diode (usually, the diode has a bar marking on its (K) side). LED has a flat on Cathode side.
Badly connected, circuit will not work and/or capacitor could die.
= C1 & D1 converts the nominal 6VAC to a 16V (almost) DC
= R1 limits the current to a safe level for the user (and the LED)
= LED1 stops any voltage lower than 1.2V, and gives a visual indication that current flows. Offset of this circuit is 1.2V. Quite good.
Component description :
C1 = Electrolytic capacitor, value from 22 to 100uF, 50V or more.
D1 = Diode 50 to 100V, 50mA to 1A.
R1 = Resistor 1/8W to 1W. 1.0kohm to 2.2kohm
LED1 = Any kind, high intensity recommended.
Our test circuit has been built with what we had in hand.
C1 = 22uF - 50V
D1 = 1N4004 (1A-400V)
R1 = 1kohm, 1/4W
LED1 = LTL2R3KFK
LED 5mm yellow, 700mcd@20mA - 2V
BEAWARE : The diode, capacitor and LED have a polarity you must respect : they have a (+) end and a (-) end.
They most be well connected : Capacitor with its (-) side on the dynamo, capacitor (+) side on the K (Cathode) of diode (usually, the diode has a bar marking on its (K) side). LED has a flat on Cathode side.
Badly connected, circuit will not work and/or capacitor could die.
How to do-it : Practice
Components
Assembled circuit #1
Poignée : Exemple_1
In theory, this small generator, able to deliver up to 500mA, could drive up to 50 VeloZap circuits (use-it stationary, please! :-) ).
You can add many VeloZap circuits in parallel (all "capacitor input" connected to the dynamo, all "diode input" (Chassis) connected as common) or you can made the circuit bellow :
You can add many VeloZap circuits in parallel (all "capacitor input" connected to the dynamo, all "diode input" (Chassis) connected as common) or you can made the circuit bellow :
Fig_1 = Dynamo Lighting System
Positive points of this zapper
= Extremely simple : only 4 components, no battery.
= Very low price ($1.00 to $2.00), less with second hand or salvaged components.
= Simple to build
= Simple to use
= Can be converted to be used by many people at once (stationary use, of course!)
= Can be used far away of any service
= Can be used on others
Negative points :
= Quite low frequency, needs longer use
= Almost sinusoidal current, do not produce harmonics as a square wave do.
To summarize :
Its bigger disadvantage (low frequency) can be easily compensated by a daily or longer use.
Don Croft MiniZapper, of good reputation, uses a frequency of 15Hz, so...
Who cares of this low frequency? Not me!
= Extremely simple : only 4 components, no battery.
= Very low price ($1.00 to $2.00), less with second hand or salvaged components.
= Simple to build
= Simple to use
= Can be converted to be used by many people at once (stationary use, of course!)
= Can be used far away of any service
= Can be used on others
Negative points :
= Quite low frequency, needs longer use
= Almost sinusoidal current, do not produce harmonics as a square wave do.
To summarize :
Its bigger disadvantage (low frequency) can be easily compensated by a daily or longer use.
Don Croft MiniZapper, of good reputation, uses a frequency of 15Hz, so...
Who cares of this low frequency? Not me!
Wire : Any kind. In my trials, I used telephone wire (shown) and old AWG#18 coming from an old lamp)
Capacitor C1 : This component is polarized.
Most often it shows a cylindrical body and comes in two kinds :
1= Both wires are in the same side (sample shown). A mark identifies the negative wire most of the time.
2= A wire exits from each side. (+) wire exits on the recessed side
Diode D1 : This component is polarized.
Most of the times this component has a cylindrical body, and its Cathode (K) has a mark
Resistor R1 :Most of the time this component has a cylindrical body with color strips to identify its value :
Brown, Black, Red = 1, 0, 00 = 1000ohms
Red, Red, Red = 2, 2, 00 = 2200ohms
Often, another strip (Gold or Silver) identify the tolerance. Not important here.
LED : This component is polarized.
Being a diode, this component ha a mark to identify its cathode (K). Our Led has a small flat on its low end, on shorter wire side.
Capacitor C1 : This component is polarized.
Most often it shows a cylindrical body and comes in two kinds :
1= Both wires are in the same side (sample shown). A mark identifies the negative wire most of the time.
2= A wire exits from each side. (+) wire exits on the recessed side
Diode D1 : This component is polarized.
Most of the times this component has a cylindrical body, and its Cathode (K) has a mark
Resistor R1 :Most of the time this component has a cylindrical body with color strips to identify its value :
Brown, Black, Red = 1, 0, 00 = 1000ohms
Red, Red, Red = 2, 2, 00 = 2200ohms
Often, another strip (Gold or Silver) identify the tolerance. Not important here.
LED : This component is polarized.
Being a diode, this component ha a mark to identify its cathode (K). Our Led has a small flat on its low end, on shorter wire side.
Here is shown one assembly of components. Many other ways can be used, depending on components and "individual taste".
The overall weight is so small that an "air mounting" , Hot Glue assembly or other non-conventional assemblies can be made, depending on your resources or electronic experience.
The overall weight is so small that an "air mounting" , Hot Glue assembly or other non-conventional assemblies can be made, depending on your resources or electronic experience.
Steps to final assembly bellow
= Wrap with electrical tape both connections.
= Add wire connections
= Green wire for live input
= Dark wires (2) for chassis connection and (-) handhold
= Orange wire for live handhold output (+)
= Wrap each component and solder joints.
= Isolate the overall circuit. Colored wires will avoid error connections.
Not very fancy, but functional. This assembly has been mounted in the front light, for long term testing, with the LED visible from the outside.
When the LED lights (dim), the electrical circuit is "closed" throughout the bicycle user.
= Wrap with electrical tape both connections.
= Add wire connections
= Green wire for live input
= Dark wires (2) for chassis connection and (-) handhold
= Orange wire for live handhold output (+)
= Wrap each component and solder joints.
= Isolate the overall circuit. Colored wires will avoid error connections.
Not very fancy, but functional. This assembly has been mounted in the front light, for long term testing, with the LED visible from the outside.
When the LED lights (dim), the electrical circuit is "closed" throughout the bicycle user.
For sure, this rough assembly can be made more ... up-to-date, if you can afford "normal" electronic facilities.
Here is another example, made with a piece of prototyping board and an In-Out connector. This more professional-looking circuit can be mounted inside a small plastic enclosure, mounted anywhere on the bicycle. The LED can be mounted outside this box (close to a handhold, for better visibility), as long as the electrical circuit is as shown, and connections well isolated from chassis metal.
Here is another example, made with a piece of prototyping board and an In-Out connector. This more professional-looking circuit can be mounted inside a small plastic enclosure, mounted anywhere on the bicycle. The LED can be mounted outside this box (close to a handhold, for better visibility), as long as the electrical circuit is as shown, and connections well isolated from chassis metal.
Here are some comments of my experiences with this circuit :
BE AWARE : THESE ARE THE PERSONAL RESULTS OF MY EXPERIMENTAL TRIALS. YOUR EXPERIMENTS CAN HAVE DIFFERENT RESULTS OR INDICATE YOU THAT THIS ZAPPER IS NOT FOR YOU. YOUR COMFORT IS A GOOD GUIDE. PLEASE, READ "Zapper Use" PAGE
Note : Depending on the dynamo used and choice of components, results may vary. Numbers shown are those of my experiences and are given as an rough indication.
= The dynamo lighting system used here (manufactured by Tung Lin, cost-me about $25Can) gives 2 cycles per revolution. This means about 100Hz at 10km/h, 150Hz at 15km/h.
= Without load (lights) this dynamo give me 14Vpeak at the output of VeloZap circuit for 10km/h speed, 25Vp at 20km/h and 40Vp at 35km/h.
= With front and rear lights "ON", these numbers fall to 6Vp at 10km/h and 10Vp at 20km/h.
= With these results in mind, I use a switch to stop front light and let rear light "ON". I have then measured 11VP at 10km/h and 19Vp at 20km/h.
= If you use a stationary exercise bicycle, use numbers without load.
= Without load, I feel nothing when I use "dry" handholds (1mA_RMS). If I add 2 layers of moisten paper towel, current build-up to 2.2mA_RMS and I feel the characteristic "tinkle" of electricity flowing trough me. Not harmful, but unpleasant to many. By adding the rear light, current decreases enough to remove the "tinkle feel".
= If you use wet paper towel, you can decrease the current flow by wrapping the handholds with 3 or 4 turns instead of 2. You can add too a 470ohms or 1kohm resistor in series with the output circuit.
BE AWARE : THESE ARE THE PERSONAL RESULTS OF MY EXPERIMENTAL TRIALS. YOUR EXPERIMENTS CAN HAVE DIFFERENT RESULTS OR INDICATE YOU THAT THIS ZAPPER IS NOT FOR YOU. YOUR COMFORT IS A GOOD GUIDE. PLEASE, READ "Zapper Use" PAGE
Note : Depending on the dynamo used and choice of components, results may vary. Numbers shown are those of my experiences and are given as an rough indication.
= The dynamo lighting system used here (manufactured by Tung Lin, cost-me about $25Can) gives 2 cycles per revolution. This means about 100Hz at 10km/h, 150Hz at 15km/h.
= Without load (lights) this dynamo give me 14Vpeak at the output of VeloZap circuit for 10km/h speed, 25Vp at 20km/h and 40Vp at 35km/h.
= With front and rear lights "ON", these numbers fall to 6Vp at 10km/h and 10Vp at 20km/h.
= With these results in mind, I use a switch to stop front light and let rear light "ON". I have then measured 11VP at 10km/h and 19Vp at 20km/h.
= If you use a stationary exercise bicycle, use numbers without load.
= Without load, I feel nothing when I use "dry" handholds (1mA_RMS). If I add 2 layers of moisten paper towel, current build-up to 2.2mA_RMS and I feel the characteristic "tinkle" of electricity flowing trough me. Not harmful, but unpleasant to many. By adding the rear light, current decreases enough to remove the "tinkle feel".
= If you use wet paper towel, you can decrease the current flow by wrapping the handholds with 3 or 4 turns instead of 2. You can add too a 470ohms or 1kohm resistor in series with the output circuit.
BE AWARE! : The assembly and trial of this circuit is made by you at your own risk and with your only responsibility.
We cannot help in any way if this circuit fails or do not work as YOU expected. Results may vary from one case to the other.
We cannot help in any way if this circuit fails or do not work as YOU expected. Results may vary from one case to the other.
The main advantage of this circuit is the common input part C1-D1.
C1 = 22uF x Nber of circuits.
For 32 circuits :
C1= 36x 22uF= 792uF => 1000uF
There is a drawback : If C1 or D1 dies, all 36 circuits are in trouble.
My personal choice would be a complete VeloZap circuit per user
C1 = 22uF x Nber of circuits.
For 32 circuits :
C1= 36x 22uF= 792uF => 1000uF
There is a drawback : If C1 or D1 dies, all 36 circuits are in trouble.
My personal choice would be a complete VeloZap circuit per user
To end this assembly, here is a rough example of my handholds, done for test.
= Wrap 2 layers of any metallic foil (Here, kitchen aluminum foil), and maintain-it with multiple turns of electrical wire.
Other arrangements are possible.
= Put enough electrical wire to cover the handlebar handhold (no aluminum foil needed).
= Use a naked handlebar for the chassis handhold.
= Wrap a 2 layer of wet cotton tissue or kitchen paper towel to have a better electrical contact and be isolated from the metal.
Check time to time if the LED dims, to be sure everything is OK.
= Wrap 2 layers of any metallic foil (Here, kitchen aluminum foil), and maintain-it with multiple turns of electrical wire.
Other arrangements are possible.
= Put enough electrical wire to cover the handlebar handhold (no aluminum foil needed).
= Use a naked handlebar for the chassis handhold.
= Wrap a 2 layer of wet cotton tissue or kitchen paper towel to have a better electrical contact and be isolated from the metal.
Check time to time if the LED dims, to be sure everything is OK.
Fig_2 = VeloZap schematic, added to the dynamo lighting system
Legal disclaimer :
We do not prescribe, diagnose, or make any medical claim or advices.
The principles, assumptions or theories exposed here have no medical or scientific value officially recognized.
Please note that Dr Clark’s books or devices have not been evaluated by Health Canada (Canada) or Food and Drugs Administration (USA), and then, have not received any guarantee on their effectiveness or their safety.
Zappers can only be sold or used as experimental devices for educational research. They are not intended for use in the cure, treatment, prevention, diagnostic of any disease.
If illness is an issue, please consult a licensed health professional before attempting any self health program.
By using this information without the approval of a licensed health professional, you are prescribing for yourself, as permitted by law, and you take full responsibility for the results.
These results may vary depending on individuals
We do not prescribe, diagnose, or make any medical claim or advices.
The principles, assumptions or theories exposed here have no medical or scientific value officially recognized.
Please note that Dr Clark’s books or devices have not been evaluated by Health Canada (Canada) or Food and Drugs Administration (USA), and then, have not received any guarantee on their effectiveness or their safety.
Zappers can only be sold or used as experimental devices for educational research. They are not intended for use in the cure, treatment, prevention, diagnostic of any disease.
If illness is an issue, please consult a licensed health professional before attempting any self health program.
By using this information without the approval of a licensed health professional, you are prescribing for yourself, as permitted by law, and you take full responsibility for the results.
These results may vary depending on individuals
Certain Internet sites associate zapper and serious illness.
It is not our role to make such assertions.
Illness does not interest us.
We leave it to the experts of the unhealthy states.
We are only interested to feel better, which is highly subjective, and to get rid of as much “invaders” who drain our resources, as possible.
These invaders, who live at our expense, we name them under the generic name of “parasites”.
We experience the influence of the zapper effect
on these parasites, on a hypothetical and empirical basis, which have nothing to do with medical or scientific rules.
It is not our role to make such assertions.
Illness does not interest us.
We leave it to the experts of the unhealthy states.
We are only interested to feel better, which is highly subjective, and to get rid of as much “invaders” who drain our resources, as possible.
These invaders, who live at our expense, we name them under the generic name of “parasites”.
We experience the influence of the zapper effect
on these parasites, on a hypothetical and empirical basis, which have nothing to do with medical or scientific rules.
