What to look for, before buying one...

I'm a zapper's designer.

I'm not a zapper's "GURU"

I'm mainly a zapper's user.

I have some experience on what works, and what doesn't works so well.

I doesn't possess "THE Truth", but here is my truth, and some good points to consider, when looking for a zapper.

The “Hulda Clark zapper” is a very simple device, and applications seems endless, when you start experimenting.
Technically speaking, it is quite easily for almost anyone, to make a working zapper.  And most of them will work.
And none will work as a panacea, as many will try to convince you.

You can buy a well done zapper, meeting all Dr Clark’s criteria for $10.00 out there (Honest, free publicity).  Why pay more?  Well, an On-Off switch will not hurt, a nice case and a couple of frequencies will not hurt neither, and …  
Where should we stop, on our request?

Back to basics.
=  What are your real needs?
=  What kind of comfort meets your lifestyle?
=  How much your budget can buy?
=  And frequency… Haaahh!! Frequency!  Which one is THE good frequency?
=  Why everyone out there swears only by “its” frequency, and why their frequencies are all different?

How many questions for a so “simple device”!

Here are some points to consider.  Don't take them as definitive.  Think about it, and make yourself an opinion.  Then act, compare the results and start again... 

1_ Quality of the material : If you had to put your very and only life in one device you don’t know well, will you trust Mr JoBlow assembling the device in a corner of a kitchen table, will you trust your brother-in-law’s friend studying electronic, or an experienced professional, with 25 years of experience, using proven technology? 
Easy to answer…  Unless…. You are looking for the cheapest way to die (:-)

2_ Warranty :  No one will give you any serious warranty of the "medical" effectiveness of a zapper.  IT IS AGAINST THE LAW.  Only Medical Doctors can , by law, diagnostic, cure or treat illness. 
And even doctors will not give you any warranty...

We, zapper users, can only experiment on ourselves. Period.

The only warranty a zapper’s manufacturer can give you are :
=  The compliance with their technical specs (when they have any...).  Very few manufacturers gives specs of their device, some times because they don't know the performance of their zapper,  some times because they know too well their (low) performance. 
Most of the times they prefer to convince you they are "THE BEST" but don't want to suffer from comparison...

=  A warranty against possible manufacturing flaws. A good standard is 1 year. (In electronic, without moving parts, if “it” works well for 3 months, chances are good it will work for a long, long time).

=  If you deal with a nice guy, you will have too a “satisfaction warrantee”  where you will be able to say, when unpacking your zapper : “Sorry, I did a mistake.  This is not what I was expecting.  Please, take-it back” .
There is not any legal obligation.  Only nice people (or people believing they are nice guys).

3_ There is a lot of tradeoffs between technical solutions and cost.
Some are better than others.

=  The best cheap, reusable, efficient electrodes for a zapper are copper tubes around 0.87” Dia, 4 to 6” long, with cheap, wet white towel paper.  In second close place, feet plates could be even better, but they are more expensive.

=  Reusable ECG electrodes are very good if you follow instructions, and use your zapper once in a wile, but not as “practical” as copper tubes if you zap every day, or 3 times per day.

=  Stay away of hand free wriststraps.  Their electrical efficiency are around 25% of a copper tube, sometimes they seriously “tickles”.  A good way to become unhappy…

=  Connections around electrodes are a weak point on many zappers.  Expect to repair yourself this part of your zapper.

= Some zappers have uncommon output connectors and you will have to rely on original stuff ($!$!).

=  Banana connectors and 2mm connectors are very common and easy to repair.  They are my first choice, with soldered wire on the copper handle, for a long lasting good connection.

= Stiff wires are annoying.  Flexible (Test lead wire) cables are much better.

= Alligator clips are versatile.  You can hold almost any electrode with them, but on nice and smooth copper tubes, they are slippery and you should check them time to time.

=  ON_Led indicator count for a good part of current consumption.  They can hang on input (battery side) and give you an indication that switch is ON, or they can be on output side, giving you an indication that output should be working.  These Led will dim as battery wears.  Some zappers have a more complex circuit, shutting down the LED when battery reach a minimum level, telling you "it’s time to change battery!".

=  OUTPUT CURRENT LED indicator : Some zappers have a special circuit detecting a minimum current flowing through output terminals.  This should tell you that the output in not “open”, than the output is well connected (to you, we hope)  This indicator is rare, and gives you a minimal and useful information on the output connections.

4_  Most Zappers use a 555 oscillator.  An excellent choice.  Cheap, simple, robust, reliable, just right for a zapper.  Other integrated circuits could be good too, but 555 are THE reference.
=  Zapers with 2 or 3 frequencies :  A good portion of zappers offer you 2 or 3 different frequencies.  It is easy, with a 555, to make 1 to 3 frequencies.  More becomes cumbersome.
=  Avoid zappers built around CMOS 4xxx series: Their output deliver lower current, and circuits are as expensive as 555 ones.

5_  The use of a programmable micro-controller is quite rare and expensive, and offers many user-friendly functions, permitting  complex frequencies, variable duty cycle and programmed sessions.  This is a complex solution, out of reach of most electronic hobbyist.   You will see more of these zappers, as competition arises and prices get down.  Very good for zapper’s futur

6_ Common 9V battery : All pocket size zappers come with this anemic, but cheap and practical battery.  Its voltage drops quickly from 9.5V to 8.0V or 7.5V, stays there for a wile, then drops again quickly to 5.5V and less.
Efficiency of your zapper follows closely battery’s voltage.
We prefer to have a low (still good) voltage if it is reliable (always the same). 
We can count on similar results, time after time.
That’s why we consider a 5V regulator as a good feature.

=  Much better, a steady (regulated) voltage around 10V will give a powerful zapping, without being disturbing (itching).  But having this from a 9V battery needs the use of a booster-regulator, a complication out of the reach of many manufacturers (and this very safe solution adds cost to the zapper too).  Going further than 12V on voltage supply looks very good on publicity but these zappers pass most of their time in the corner of a drawer, because they are unpleasant to use and remind the old (and new) use of electroshock “therapy”.

= The best, by far, is a Constant Current Souce, because zappers are current devices and not voltage devices.
What is important is the current flowing through you , and not the voltage across you (used to "push" current).
Zappers using this control means are RARE.

=  Some manufacturers prefer to have a power supply connected to the line (110V/220V).  Most of the time, they will use approved (UL, CSA, ACNOR) transformers (approved for what?) and “forget” to approve the whole assembly (a costly and cumbersome process), putting them out-of-the-Law.  Stay away of this “too easy” solution,  This is the proof of an “apprentice sorcerer”, not knowing what he is doing with zappers, most of the time.
Power supply from a safe battery is the only way to go with zappers.
Go to this Bench Test page to see by yourself, where this point can lead to... Scarry!

7_  Internal output impedance :  This is an important safety point everyone should consider.
The output of a 555 can easily deliver 100mA.  Only the internal output impedance can limit the current to a safe level (unless you are using a Constant Current Source Zapper)
We need only 0.05 to 0,15mA at destination, for the “H.Clark zapper effect” to act.
=  8 to 10mA: Can give you a Shock at contact (backlash)
=  10 to 20mA: Will give you an electric shock + contraction of the muscles and continuous nervous twitching.
=  Above 20mA : Deadly risk, proportional to the current involved.

I feel Dr Clark knew electronic quite well, and did a very good safe design of its zapper, before releasing-it on public domain.  That’s why she inserted an output impedance of 1000_Ohms in series with the output on her original zapper.  This protects the zapper AND the user to a safe level of zapping current.

Based on the principle that “BIGGER IS BETTER”, many manufacturers short circuit this impedance with a capacitor, permitting the current variations (Frequency) to circumvent this impedance, lowering its “alternative value” to almost 0, and pushing currents to BIGGER IS BETTER levels.
Result : The output is defined as a "Constant Wave", "doesn’t distort", use of a “stabilized wave technology”, and other terminology, trying to prove this “bigger is better”.

We believe that just right and no more is enough.
What are your beliefs, in this matter?

Wish List for a zapper under $75.00
Power supply :
= Protection against battery reversal.
= On-Off switch
= For a general use :
    =  No regulator, OK
    =  5V regulator, better
    =  Sequence 7-20 OK;
    =  Continuous zapping OK too (different approach)
= For an advanced use (Plate zapping, Homeography, strong zapping) you will need a power supply delivering at least 9V.
10V to 12V Booster-regulator is an excellent solution. A good alternative will be the use of 6 AA or CC or DD batteries in series.
AVOID WALL PLUG SUPPLY!

Electronic circuitry :
= Low power CMOS makes good use of battery energy
= Powered by a 555 oscillator (7555: low power consumption version)
   (At this price range, micro controllers are not yet common)
= If only one frequency : 10kHz to 50kHz best.
If 2 frequencies : 30kHz and 2.5Hz or 30kHz and 1kHz
If 3 frequencies : 30kHz, 2.5kHz, 1kHz
= Output LED to check well connected output.  ON Led is then not a “must”, but most customers like-it.
= 800 to 1000_Ohms output impedance (without “constant wave” or alike)
= A way to reduce power output will be a nice feature for sensible skins, unless you already have a 5V regulator.
= A picture of the zapper’s inside will permit you to check if circuitry is made by a professional or by “JoBlow1”, afraid to show its poor workmanship, or afraid to be copied by “JoBlow2”
= Printed Circuit Board, double sided, with component/solder mask is an “industrial standard” and we consider it as a minimum for a commercial zapper.
    =  If manufacturer uses conventional components, that’s OK. It can be a good asset if you are planning to experiment with the circuits (want to change frequency, or other parameters, if you know what you are doing, because warranty will not apply any more).
    =  If manufacturer uses Surface Mount Devices, chances are he has access to mass production and good quality standards.  Hard to modify or change components without the right tools.
Output :
= “Banana kind” connectors are very good choice for zappers.  Alligator clips are good choices, if pressure of clips is strong.
=  Flexible Test Lead Wire are very good choice.
=  Cable soldered to copper handhold is very good.
=  At least 2 copper handholds 7/8” Dia and 4 to 6” long.

USEFUL UNDERSTANDING OF A ZAPPER

We encourage you to educate yourself before making a final choice.
One choice only, we call this "an obligation". 
Two choices is a "dilemma"
Choice starts with number 3.

If we had only one model of zapper to suggest you, we could say "This zapper is the best", "This zapper is the ultimate one", "you can't make a better choice", "..." And so on...
But ...

We like to give you choices, and to make a good one, you should know your needs… and your budget.

In this site, when we talk about efficiency of a zapper, we talk about the technical efficiency (Energy transfer, good use of the battery, and so on.
Nothing to do with illness or “medical efficiency”. Period.

As stated by Dr Clark on her book “The Cure For All Diseases”, pp 15 & 16,
“Any positively offset frequency kills all bacteria, viruses and parasites simultaneously, given sufficient voltage (5 to 10V), duration (seven minutes) and frequency (anything from 10 Hz to 500,000Hz)”
“Zapping does not kill shielded organisms, such as those that may be in the middle of your stomach or intestines.  The electricity travels along the stomach or intestine wall, not through their contents”.

This page continues to evoluate as experience and better understanding of the zapper progress
Last Uptodate:
2010-Apr 16

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